Saturday, February 28, 2009



the faith of tripe stew








I used to know a girl named Faith. Not really. But I could have. It's not that unusual a name.

She sat across from me in Mrs. Jones's fifth grade class. She had wispy blond hair that fell across her small, ecru face in a wispy scrim, obscuring her indistinct features as she floated around the perimeter of the room in her own private orbit, noiseless, and colorless except for the once-bright plaid and animal print patches that were clumsily sewn to her clothing by her single mom. The hems of her clothing dipped and dodged like the rabid dog at the end of the movie version of To Kill A Mockingbird, just before Atticus shot it. (Spoiler alert!) She also smelled like pee, faintly. As if she'd peed her pants and run out the door, late for school, messy, unclean.


Poor.


Fatherless.


Across a yard that needed watering, dessicatedly.


I was also on the fringe, just not as far out on the fringe as Faith. My bowler hat was brushed clean every night before I laid it out for the next day. My button down shirt was free of patches and mends, and my rainbow suspenders were bright as a Hello Kitty backpack, new, from the store. I smelled of soap and toothpaste and caramel corn as I sat with my two friends on the yellow beanbag in the sun, reading Death in Venice. It was number 152 on my list. Only 26 to go!


One day, my parents drove me through a dimly lit, festering part of town, past a hovel that was sort of lopsidedly shameful, worn around the edges, possibly with a rat or two lingering in the shadows and a pot of mystery meat bubbling on the crusty stove, within. The grass was brownish on the tips. Even the weeds looked as if they were depressed and ashamed. There was a garish billboard out front saying "PALMS READ $2" and a picture of a lady with a faint mustache and a unibrow.

"That's where your friend Faith lives. You know, that girl you complain about all the time," my mother intoned.


I looked sideways out the rolled up car window, past the locked car door. I couldn't imagine living there. Being poor is so shameful and awful. My goodness, she didn't even have a father. I ducked my head, tears stinging my eyes from the thought of a more intense smell inside the house. And that sign. So embarrassing. I felt embarrassed for her.


Until a few days ago, I felt the same way about tripe.


Tripe.


We used to joke about it in a Darth Vader voice that they do on South Park, braying loudly at the jokes and bawdy humor. Then we actually wondered out loud what tripe is! Turns out it is the lining of a cow stomach. We raced to the store to buy some and were pleasantly surprised to find large sheets of it hanging, fresh and pale, chewy, ready to provide the grist of a tantalizing supper dish.


You see, I grew up eating tripe. It was one of the ingredients in one of the Campbell soups that my mom used to cook up. We didn't eat it daily, just in a regular fashion. I would wait hungrily while the soup boiled and toiled in the large pot on the stove, my complete works of Shakespeare tucked under my arm, occasionally dipping a drinking straw in to suck up a taste, even if it burned the mucous membranes of my mouth to shreds.

Then, finally, when it was heated thoroughly to keep us all from growing ill, we'd get seated at our TV trays and ladle it into our waiting mouths, all while watching Gilligan's Island. I loved the clothes on that show. PapaChef and I can sing the entire theme song word for word and we often act out entire episodes, in costume. I am always Gilligan. He usually asks to be Ginger but most often he has to be Mrs. Lovey Howell because my dresses are more that type, and because I say so. Midget Peanut plays Lovey's little dog. She can bark in three languages already and she's only 7 months old. I can't keep up!


My only memory of tripe is in those little rubbery bits in the Campbell soup, often stuck to the bottom of the can so that you have to swish the water around to get them out. It wasn't my favorite. Split Pea with Ham was my favorite, also Bean with Bacon. I knew the soup with the tripe smacked of cheapness, of poverty, of the very smell of poverty.


So we cooked up some tripe stew.
My goodness me. It was nothing like Campbell's. For one, the pieces of tripe were much bigger. You could really see the cilia and other textures. Campbell's was never this authentic! In fact, now I'm not even sure that what they said was tripe was tripe! It may have been skin, or something.

As I ladled our mouth-watering stew into my mouth, after honoring it by clicking my camera at it, I thought of the picturesque meat aisle of the grocery store, a fractured glimpse of hanging tripe visible through the slightly foggy windows of the swinging doors that led into the butcher area. I could taste the memory of my excitement, giggling and bouncing, as our dear friend in the meat department, Meat Guy, brought out our tripe, packaged neatly in a blue foam tray and tightly wrapped with sparkly fresh plastic wrap. It was a world of fresh, new possibilities. I couldn't wait to get it home.


All of that was in the rich depths of flavor of that stew. We nearly grew teary eyed at remembering.
And Faith. Faith was in that tripe stew. Outsider, kind of weird, not very appealing, sort of smelly, not something you want to get close to.

Faith.


Tripe.


I wish I had known her better.


Tripe Stew


Cut your tripe into manageable pieces. Too big and people will gag. Too small and no one will notice that it's there.


Get a saute pan screaming hot, as PapaChef is fond of saying. Add two sticks of butter and let it melt, burbling like a happy brook in early spring, just glad that its little fish and frogs will soon be out partaking of its wonders.


When the butter has reached a peak of gurgling, nestle the chunks of tripe into it, being careful to give them enough personal space. Once they have grown to a nice brown, flip them and help them to settle into the pan, to let the other sides grow brown also.


Cut up an onion and tumble it into the pan.

Cut up some bell peppers and snuggle these in amongst the onions and tripe.

Pour the GF gravy leftover from filming the gravy show over all, letting it drape into every nook and cranny, forming a scrim of gravy goodness over all.


Cook until the tripe shudders against the tongs when you go to taste some. Anywhere from 2-6 hours. Lay on the couch and take a nap if you can so that you don't eat it all before it's actually done.


Serves 2 regular people or 20 very poor people.

17 comments:

  1. What a moving post. I love your word choices! Words like slithering, shudder, etc - I would never think to use them to describe food and eating, but WOW you make it work!! This whole post felt like soaring into the blue!!!

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  2. You know, I have always thought that tripe had a slight pee taste to it. Your post has gotten me thinking - maybe I should embrace the urine, rather than act like a snob about it.

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  3. OMG, BEST POST EVER. I cried, I really did. My grandmother from Ukraine used to cook tripe for me when I was just a little one. She would boil it all day and then add potatoes, cabbage and whatever roots were available at the market that day. She would have to stand in line for hours to get even a few rutabagas. That tripe tasted of love, let me tell you.

    Is tripe gluten-free?

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  4. OMG, that looks soooooooooo good!!!!!

    that's all, i just had to say it!!!!

    love ya,

    mindee

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  5. That was a lovelylyly post. I haven't thought of Salisbury steak since elementary school, because it was really very nasty then and looked like harvested organs on our glisteningly grey cafeteria trays, but I certainly remember the progress reports with how many books I had read (about 175 more than whatever your list was), the enormous expensive glasses that didn't smell anything like pee, and how nerdy and smart and cool I was compared to everyone else, even though they didn't know it. "Perhaps" it's time to give your "recipe" for "Salisbury" "steak" another "try."

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  6. I love how the organic red and green peppers highlight the glistening crevices of the tripe! I have to make some tonight and puree a serving for our baby. She's already eating organic, grass fed meat, so I'm sure she'll enjoy the unique texture of tripe. I hope when she's 7 months old, she's as fluent in as many languages as your daughter!

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  7. OMG, that picture is making me so hungry. I am going to try to make it this weekend. I will have to halve the recipe because it is just me.

    I love the image of you and papachef singing the Gilligan's theme song together. So romantic!

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  8. Yes, I say, yes to tripe! The other day I was taking a slow nap on the couch and I looked over to see the late afternoon sunlight catching a dangling stip of tripe that was hanging from my garbage can. It looked, spontaneously, like a dream catcher or a spider web slung loungingly in a cedar tree on Vashon Island, pregnant, boomingly, with possibility and the simple spontaneous beauty of love, food, and family. I draped it, slitheringly, over my face, and stared gazingly through its rainbow folds and velveteen ridges as I continued, nappingly, to nap on the couch, couchingly.

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  9. I hope you do a post on how to feed babies and children, soon. My doctor keeps telling me that I have to watch out for "salt" and "fat" in my little one's food, but he doesn't say YES to life, he doesn't say YES to food, and he especially doesn't say YES to high blood pressure and heart disease! I saw once on another food expert's blog that you can actually give butter and sugar to a baby! Why doesn't the medical establishment read that other blog and come to their senses?

    I see that our precious, darling little ones are about the same age, but I'm just sure that most babies aren't babbling by 7 months and most babies certainly don't want to eat food at that age, also too. Does your sweet darling little one read yet? Mine does! He actually grabs a hard-back baby book and opens it up! Sometimes he even has it turned the right way around! I hope you, someday, get to experience that.

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  10. YEAH, IT'S ME. DON'T THINK I DIDN'T FIGURE IT OUT JUST BECAUSE YOU CHANGED THE NAME. BITCH. WHO YOU ARE THINKING YOU BETTER THAN THE REST OF US. THAT PEE SMELL WASNT PEE, IT WAS FRIED TRIPE WHICH MY GRAMMA MADE US EVERY MORNING FOR BREAKFAST. SHE WAS A GOOD COOK, NOT LIKE YOUR MAMA. YOU THE ONE WHO ATE POP TARTS, DON'T FORGET. I KNOW BECAUSE YOU TALKED ABOUT THEM FOR ONE WHOLE SHOW AND TELL IN THIRD GRADE. BITCH. AND THAT NASTY CAPTAIN CRUNCH THAT SCUFF YOUR MOUTH ALL UP. BITCH. GET OFF YOUR HIGH HORSE. YOU AND YOUR ORANGE GLASSES.

    BRENDA

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  11. Once I ordered TRIPE and the server gave another table their drinks ***BEFORE*** they entered my tripe into the computer. That isn't FAIR because customers need to WAIT THEIR TURN to get tripe. Then the server CAME BACK to ask me if I wanted my tripe with CAUL FAT ***OR*** TRUFFLE OIL when I wanted it with both!!!! POINTS OFF THE TIP.

    When I finally got my TRIPE, I had only HALF-SERVINGS of caul fat and the server FORGOT my RANCH DRESSING. The server didn't act CARING because I choose tripe based on it going well with *******RANCH DRESSING******** and I went to that restaurant because it has good RANCH. A "good" and "caring" server prevents missing ranch.

    I would have given 10% but I didn't get a REAL SINCERE apology for being so lazy and also the server wrote THANK YOU and put a SMILEY FACE on the bill, WASTING MY TIME.

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  12. My goodness, I had no idea that my musings on Faith would lead to such an outpouring of comments, some of which are too vile to publish! Heartfelt gratitude to those of you who had constructive thoughts to contribute.

    Jeanette,

    Thank you, I find that when I write from the belly, my words are especially lyrical.


    Anonymous,

    I really wish people would post with their real names instead of hiding behind Anonymous. But thank you anyway, maybe the flavor of bacon fat would mask the tripe smell if that bothers you so much.


    Melissa,

    YES.


    Jadeleena,

    Your grandmother sounds like a wonderful person! Funny how we are criticized for cooking like our grandmothers did and wanting to use good ingredients. Yes, tripe is gluten free. So are onions.


    Grace,

    I'm sorry, have we met? If we have, you would know that I have read more books than you. By the way, is that gluten on your chin?

    Ginger,

    Somewhere I saw that you can make a tripe chew toy for teething babies. I'll look that up and put it on SFG Recommends. Maybe your daughter will catch up to Midget Peanut someday, but probably not. Most little ones won't.

    Lonely Old Jade,

    Not everyone can find true love. Enjoy the tripe.


    Anonymous,

    What a lovely post! Do you mind if I adapt your dreamcatcher idea for my next book, entitled "Catching Dreams in the Kitchen: How to Make Love Last with Smells and Giggles"?


    Chloe,

    Oh pish posh, how are little ones expected to make food the center of their universe if they are fed nothing but bland pap, day in, and day out? And yes, of course Midget Peanut reads. She is halfway through the complete works of Shakespeare and has made a good start on War and Remembrance. I thought I made that clear.


    Brenda,

    I'm sorry, have we met? You see, this is what I mean. So vile. All lies. Except about the orange glasses, of course. I certainly did have very stylish orange glasses in fifth grade, and you didn't.


    SPRINGS1,

    Have you been tested for celiac? You see, I am able to diagnose other celiacs over the internet and I fear that you may have it. You sound like you do. Please, my friend, see a certified naturopath today. Time is slipping away.

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  13. I was nearly a teenager before I tasted my first bite of tripe stew. I remember my mother cooking it whilst I painted pictures at the dining table. The whole flat would fill with the smell of it.

    I was so cheeky (and still am!) that, once it was ready, I couldn't wait for it to cool and burnt my mouth, spilling tripe stock down the front of my frilly pink dress. I've always loved frilly dresses, even though I'm not a girly girl at all. I ride bikes and horses in a dress. Sometimes people look at me strangely because they can't believe that a woman would actually wear a dress, but I am quick to set them straight, especially if they are wearing those awful sweatpants.

    Sometimes people will look at me and wonder why I dress so perfectly, they think I might be trying to get a man or something. It truly is so difficult to be a single woman in this world, especially when you don't have a credit card or a television or even a car.

    I cope with my loneliness by throwing myself into my work. I've been called a workaholic. I'm a travel writer so I stay pretty busy with flying first class and updating my award winning websites. So when it gets to be too much I like to hop in my car and take a drive. If I don't do that, I just curl up and watch a movie on my television. If I am still feeling overwhelmed, I will go shopping at anthropologie. Or I just call my bff, who is an a-list celebrity. I don't like to drop names, but let's just say that she is a HUGE celebrity and she loves tripe stew just as much as I do.

    So maybe next weekend my BFF and I can cook some tripe stew together. I will have to make it gluten free, of course. I have a very rare illness called celiac disease. Well, rare for the rest of the world but very common if you are a twee fairy.

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  14. I made tripe stew from your delightful recipe but I had a few tribulations. First off, I wasn’t sure about how hot the pan should be. I’m sure it’s my fault and not the result of any ambiguity in your instructions…but my pan was so hot that when I put the 2 sticks of butter in my whole house burst into flames. Although, we did all run outside screaming so I guess you were technically correct. After the fire department left, I finished cooking the stew over the still warm coals of my burnt out shell of a home and other than a little difficulty determining doneness (my tripe didn’t shudder against the tongs, but I did every time it got near my lips, so I said YES! to the stew right then) it went fine.

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  15. Catholics eat tripe and if you were a good Christian lady, you wouldn't eat tripe either. They eat tripe because it reminds them of the Virgin Mary's veil and that's idolatry. You shouldn't eat organ meats because they aren't healthy or a nourishing tradition. Stick to things like full fat beef and canned salmon and the Lord will bless you like her has me and my 7 kids and our new double wide.

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  16. shoobydoo,
    Have you lived in Europe? My husband and I lived in Italia for nine days. We tumbled off the plane and wanted never to leave. I'm sure you know the feeling.

    Anonymous,
    PapaChef and I are of the philosophical cooking school that regards recipes as the merest guide to cooking. Maybe someday you'll be far enough along in your evolution that you can trust your instincts with the tripe stew recipe and have a better outcome. Good luck with the insurance claim. PapaChef's brother is a lawyer, by the way. Don't know if I mentioned that in the blog.

    Candy,
    You should think about converting to Buddhism, then you can eat all the organ meats you want and not worry about going to hell or whatever. It's a great religion. Cool garden statues, too.

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